AVENUE Picks

“A Dream Come True” In The Big Apple at Première Vision Preview New York 2012

Tuesday, July 17, 2012
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Ever wonder where Lanvin creative director, Alber Elbaz finds inspiration for his luxury designs? To name a place, The Première Vision Preview is where many high profile designers, including Elbaz, find their fabrics and textiles that are later transformed into wearable masterpieces. This international exhibition left Brazil just days ago to make its presence in our fair city  July 11th and 12th at the Metropolitan Pavilion. According to Premiére Vision fashion director, Sabine Le Chatelier, the creative genius behind orchestrating this event, approximately 2-3,000 potential buyers will have paid the Pavilion a visit during these two days. Although this event is repeated world-wide, the New York based show, with its 107 different committee hand picked exhibitors, features unique fabrics that are intended to specifically attract the chic NY eye. When I asked Sabine what color the fashion forward New York eye is, she said “casual.”

Sabine and her Première Vision team are driven by the belief that “it’s very important to support young designers and to help them establish good relationships with the weavers and the suppliers because it is not easy when you are starting off as a young designer to catch the really good, high quality fabrics.” Consequently, Première Vision has hosted an annual fashion competition at Hyères since 1986. This year’s winner and recipient of a 10,000 euro prize and partneship with Première Vision is the young and lovely Ragne Kikas. The NY preview recognized the young Estonian designer with a bold display of her Première Vision prize winning collection “Dress Code Defensive.”

The collection’s designs were inspired by 15th and 16th century German armour. Kikas told AVENUE that she “was captivated by the silhouettes. The armours are really masculine and I tried to translate what I saw into my own work and make it more feminine. I have always used colors except for this collection. I wanted to be challenged. This collection has its own heart, it’s a great change.”

All pieces are hand knitted by the designer herself through the process of cable stitching, a technique she picked up from her mother as a young girl. This natural innovator has no prior vision or plan before playing with her artistic weaponries; “I have no special concept in my head as I knit. I just knit and create as I go.” So there’s no top secret formula to her genius, it’s all impulsive! But Ms. Kikas does have one little secret that she let AVENUE in on:  “I don’t like to shop shhhhhh.” I guess that’s where we differ.

Perhaps I’m less likely to run into Ms. Kikas at Barney’s than I am Sabine who says it’s one of her NewYork favorites; however, it wouldn’t be shocking to see Kikas’ designs make it into a Barney’s window in the near future. In fact, the previous Première Vision prize winner has just recently launched her own brand.

When asked what it means to show her collection in New York, a blushing Ragne Kikas simply smiled and said “A dream come true.” Surely, this is just the beginning of the dream for the young designer.

Photography by Markus Voigt

 
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