Amy Adores…Favorite looks from New York Fashion Week

Friday, September 16, 2011

The fashion industry of New York City can finally breathe a heavy sigh of relief as the craziness of fashion week came to a close last night. Yes, we’ll all miss running through the cobbled streets of Soho and The Meatpacking district in 6 inch heels, cabbing from the East Village to the tents at Lincoln Center and rubbing elbows with the taste-makers and influencers of the fashion industry, but really, it means a chance to sit down and reflect on the great collections that walked down the runways this season before jetting off to London, Paris and Milan.

As much as this insider loves sitting front row (okay…maybe second) at some of our favorite designers presentations, there’s nothing better than sitting at home with a warm cup of coffee, perusing style.com’s convenient slide shows. So here’s a reflective recap of some of our favorite looks from the Spring 2012 season so far.

Proenza Schouler

Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are two of the most promising designers of our generation (well, at least in the opinion of this humble admirer). They’ve given bold patterns a renaissance likened to that of Pucci and Missoni. This season they transformed Lincoln Center’s stage into what Style.com’s Nicole Phelps referred to as “a suburban rec room straight out of the seventies”; complete with orange shag carpets and vintage light fixtures. Inspired by the much-forgotten era of “Googie” architecture, the looks that pranced down the runway featured the duo’s expected patterned panache, while also showing a more refined, tailored aesthetic than in past seasons with clean-cut short suits that proved Spring 2012 will see separates make a big comeback. Jack and Lazaro have done it again, and I imagine their chunky platforms will give Miuccia’s sparkle boots a good run for their money this coming season.

3.1 Philip Lim

It was a pastel paradise at this season’s 3.1 Philip Lim show, with models strutting down the catwalk in sumptuous shades of lavender, sherbet orange, and periwinkle blue. Undeniably a man with an eye for what women want, the Lim woman is someone every style-conscious gal would love to emulate, with her enviably laid back aesthetic that’s so chic…well, it hurts. Comfy silhouettes drape off the body and yet wouldn’t overwhelm a woman’s curves. And with a color palate good enough to eat, this Insider is counting down the days til Spring (and despite the crisp air this morning, it’s not even Fall yet).

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Taking time away from his rumored negotiations to take over Christian Dior’s vacant Creative Director position, Jacobs presented his latest collection for Marc by Marc with a burst of citrus colors and a recognizable (and somewhat expected) air of nostalgia. The women were equal parts Jackie and Marilyn, donning updated wardrobe staples in neon orange and electric blue and preppy basics like sleeveless button-ups and boyfriend oxfords had Jacobs’ signature modern twist. The men donned last season’s ever-popular creeper-style shoes, pairing them with neon suits and outerwear. It was a feast for the eyes and has this insider wondering what will come when Jacobs jets to Paris for his next venture. Will Marc X Marc remain? After this weeks show, we sure hope so.

Jeremy Laing

Canadian designer Jeremy Laing has made a name for himself in the fashion community for his elegant drapery and innovative design. Inspired by a trip to Joshua Tree in California, this seasons collection boasted a palette as earth-mother as they come, but the silhouettes were anything but “boho”. Cascading down the runway in silky chiffon, with a hint of hiker-chic, the collection was a breath of fresh air, and further perpetuated the season’s dichotomy of breezy dresses and tailored separates. Hidden within the collection of muted tones were pops of crimson and burnt orange that gave the collection a well-rounded and surprisingly cohesive tone. Laing is one more young designer raring to prove he has what it takes to reach the top of the fashion food chain.

Thom Browne

Possibly best known for his show-stopping runway presentations, Thom Browne succeeded in captivating us this season with his slightly bizarro-world collection which featured floor length sleeves, ear-high shoulders and over-sized everything. But what sets Browne apart from other boundary-pushing designers (ahem…Jeremy Scott?) is his innate sense of chic. No matter how far off the grid his imagination takes us, his collections are always crafted with a respect for a woman’s body and a wild sense of humor. Mixed in amongst the more conceptual pieces were midi- and floor-length skirts so chic they’ll be ripping apart my pocket-book in no time, and pops of citrus hues that had me salivating. The designer, who was featured in our August issue for his collaboration with Brooks Brothers, is a superstar of our time, internationally recognized and has brought back a sense of art to a sometimes drab and repetitive fashion season.


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by Debbie BancroftPhotographed by Griffin Lipson and Hunter Abrams/BFA.com