Fashion Built Ford Tough

by Michael Gross Photographed by PMc and BFA
Thursday, September 7, 2017

Last night, at the Park Avenue Armory, Tom Ford came home to New York and, heralded by a powerful sound system blasting David Bowie’s mid-Seventies hit “Fame,” brought back all the glamour of his earliest efforts for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent with a brief, dramatic, polished-to-perfection spring-summer 2018 collection. It can best be summarizing as a reflection of his new scent: Fucking Fabulous.

It was a gathering of the fashion tribe, too, of course, and all the usual editorial suspects attended (most notably Graydon Carter in his last official appearance before the announcement of his departure as editor of Vanity Fair). But respect was paid to the Old School as well the new kids on the block. So alongside assorted K- and J-people (whose names get repeated often enough that AVENUE need not indulge), smoking supermodels, actors from Ansel Elgort to Liev Schreiber, actresses like Julianne Moore and Gina Gershon, musicians (Chaka Khan, Ciara, Jon Bapitiste) and celebrity spawn like Hailey Baldwin, we spotted Suzie Menkes, Andre Leon Talley, Candy Pratts Price, and Jenny Capitain, along with the besequinned Cindy Crawford and hubby Rande Gerber, Helena Christensen and Pat Cleveland. The best kinds of reunions need and have no age limits, and Ford not only delivered, he remembered, which is a rarity in his world. (Fashion PRs, please take note.)

And the point of the exercise? An army of slouchy pants with stud details, a stunning white trench, fantastic oversized over-the-shoulder handbags, nude colors, sharp-shouldered blazers and perfectly tailored suits in denim and other trad fabrics made new, and Ford’s many sensational takes on the always sexy le Smoking. All in all it was all smoking hot.

Afterwards, sheer scrims were raised in the entry to the cavernous Armory drill hall and as guests filed out of the show space constructed within. It was a dramatic, long, carpeted minimalist rectangle washed in pale purple light and lined on both sides with Donghia-like seating platforms. They then entered a dream-like tribute to Studio 54, now celebrating its 40th birthday, where topless buff boys in short and sneaker served drinks (including Ford’s favorite, vodka and soda), and Shake Shack burgers and fries while Virgil Abloh DJ’d from a towering platform. The old school types fled (as is their wont). The new kids on the block were still dancing long after AVENUE left.

We’re running far more photos than we normally do. The night at Ford’s fashion theater was that good.


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