New York Fashion Week has been a whirlwind of a ride. Designers have been putting their talents on display with everything from shoes to ready-to-wear. Appliqués, large silhouettes and a whole lot of shimmer can be found this season.
Donald J. Pliner
Donald J. Pliner, who is working on elevating their women’s offerings, had several shoes with appliqués, and while the brand always stays true to their heritage and never attempts to be trendy, they still make sure they are staying relevant and current. Cork, which is becoming an increasingly popular material in shoes, was used in styles for both men and women. The ever-popular mule is one of their signature silhouettes for next season, and stiletto heels capped off at just three inches. True to their heritage, the brand is not one for super high heels, but they want to keep their lady looking stylish and functional.
Noon by Noor
The forever-modern duo of Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa brought their take on modern femininity to the runways this season. The brand seems to be on par with the recent appliqué trends, with several of their garments featuring fanciful, whimsical embellishments. This season, they were all about the soft colors and touches. The color palette was fresh and light in pale pink, salmon, antique gold, luminous white and black. Floral jacquards, micro lace and linen were prominent in the collection, as fantasy played out on the runway.
Telfar’s never been an ordinary brand, and they kept their unique flare beyond par this season. The brand really proved how many ways you can do a polo shirt, including designing it backwards. The offerings were very street wear inspired, giving it the perfect feeling of youth and surviving in the concrete jungle. Laser cut outs were an essential process to many of the designer’s pieces in addition to color blocking. While sportswear was his theme, his clothes still looked elevate and expensive; a difficult feat for a designer.
There’s a new man who has joined the family of flowing, gorgeous gowns. Oday Shakar, formerly a resident of Los Angeles, has arrived in New York City, and he has done so with a splash. His collection included chiffon skirts with plissé inserts to Western silhouettes with a Middle Eastern influence. The Iraqi-American designer drew inspirations from geometric patterns and prints found in Islamic architecture for his designs as well. International cultural influences are always major at Fashion Week, reminding us of the cultural melting pot American fashion has come to be. Shakar, whose designs are a favorite of actresses Sofia Vergara and Dianna Agron, is certainly one to keep on the radar.
Tadashi Shoji, who was heavy on the jumpsuits last season, brought it back to more traditional dress offerings, and didn’t miss a beat. His inspiration for spring/summer 2017 is Buddhism and the ecstatic vision of rebirth. His collection featured parachute skirts of voluminous proportions. Of course, it wouldn’t be Tadashi Shoji without some color and embroidery. Some standout looks from his collection included an emerald green sleeveless mini-dress in floral lace with am embroidered soft applique V-neck, an ivory sleeveless V-neck dress in mandal cord embroidered tulle and a red long-sleeve bodysuit with a plunging v-back.
Airy and ephemeral is a major trend this season, and one that Demoo Parkchoonmoo decided to put on display. However, the silhouettes became much too unstructured, causing the dresses to lose any real shape whatsoever. The concept that the designer Demi Park was going for was there though. The idea that clothes can be receptacles of air, a theme that was center stage of her collection, was clear. She certainly gets points for cohesiveness.
For the lady looking for the high-end mommy and me outfits, Vicky Zhang has you covered. The collection, which is named after designer Xu Zhang’s daughter Vicky, is based around the theme of Wei. Wei’s inner meaning is to nestle the family with love. Vicky Zhang is actually the world’s first parent child brand to be shown at the major Fashion Weeks.
Zhang challenges the idea that parent-child collections can’t be luxurious. For the lady looking to have her daughter match her in luxury at the next gala or soiree, this is the brand for you. Luxury materials like knitted silk satin gave the garments a distinct and expensive look that was truly one-of-a-kind.
The man of the hour during Fashion Week would have to be Jonathan Simkhai. For his spring/summer 2017 collection, the designer, who was one of last’s year Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund winners, focused on refined finishes of top quality. The collection could easily be described as young socialite chic. He took his inspiration from the Watts Tower in Los Angeles, and created 35 looks with a soft, feminine appeal. Some of his signature looks that were worthy of a weekend in the Hamptons included a mini skirt with a denim wrap belt, an asymmetric beaded sheer dress and a pearl embellished gown.
Erin Fetherston had quite a lot to celebrate this season. Her spring/summer 2017 collection marks ten years since she’s been showing at New York Fashion Week. For her tenth inaugural show the designer kept things shimmery, playful, yet simple with offerings like a dusty rose silk jacquard smocked dress, an onyx crepe blazer with matching trousers and a moonlight shimmer chiffon cascade gown. Tiered skirts were also major points of the collection, and the finale dress, the claire de lune shimmer chiffon goddess gown, was an ode to her theme “the light side of the moon.” It was a dress that couldn’t be easily forgotten.
In the spirit of international cultural inspiration, Angelys Balek found inspiration in his trip to Phuket in Thaliand and the Full Moon parties that take place there. While the designer could stand to tighten up the silhouettes more, his use of color and fluid shapes was incredible. He also knows how to do a luxury dress in fabrics that are easy to move around in. Linen was a major fabric for the collection, and was blended with silk for several looks. His dulce dress in linen, silk and viscose was an elegant sight to behold.
For additional Fashion Week coverage, view our roundups from the beginning of the week here.